Publisher's Synopsis
This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1908 edition. Excerpt: ... CHAPTER II NORTHWARDS! It was on my birthday, 26th June 1898, that I left London for that northern land which I had seen in my dreams all the previous winter. My two guides met me at Trondhjem, Joseph Imboden, my friend and companion for fifteen seasons in the Alps, and his son Emil, who had not climbed professionally till then, but who was wildly keen to learn, and had shown such aptitude on the heights near his native village that his father had no hesitation in advising me to take him. To non-climbers it may seem strange that I found it necessary to take a couple of Swiss guides to a district with which they were totally unacquainted. It must be remembered, however, that no guides exist in Lapland, since hardly any climbers have visited it . Further, it is usual for people to take men they know from place to place even in Switzerland, as what is required is technical knowledge and skill rather than mere familiarity with a certain district. It is much safer to be on a difficult peak with a first-class guide who has never before ascended it, than with an inferior man who has been up many times. In the first case the party may conceivably fail to reach the top for want of local knowledge should the way be very complicated. In the second, sudden bad weather or any other emergency may land them in a position of extreme danger. Thus, odd though it may seem, the least important duty of a guide is to know the way; while one of his first duties is to find it. And on a really hard mountain the way varies from day to day--nay, even in ascending and descending. The changes which bring this about will be carefully noted by the skilled mountaineer. Where an inferior man will advance confidently, a first-class guide will retreat or alter his route;...
