A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes.

Bookseller Notes

The first edition of this important cookery book is a notable rarity; the legal deposit libraries hold the present version.Francatelli, of Italian paternal heritage, was born in London and trained in Paris under Antonin Carme, whose catering to upper stratum of society set the pattern for Francatelli's early career: 'He worked for many years as chef de cuisine to the earl of Chesterfield, and his subsequent employers included Lord Kinnaird at Rossie Priory, in Perthshire, and the Melton Club in London. He took over from Louis Ustache Ude as matre d'hotel at Crockford's, the gambling club in St James's Street, London, and from there he became chief cook and matre d'hotel to the royal household from 1841 to 1842' (ODNB) - despite the brevity of the latter position, it is recited as a credential on the title-page here, along with his popular publications, 'The Modern Cook' and 'The Cook's Guide'. Whilst 'The Modern Cook' had sought to promote the refinement of his training in 'haute cuisine' that was, the author felt, wanting in his native land, its successors proceeded to a more economical vision - ironically, his short stint as Queen Victoria's Chief Cook is though to have been scuppered by 'Queen Victoria's lack of enthusiasm for French cuisine: it was well known that she and Prince Albert preferred plain food' (ODNB). The present work may have been more to their taste, despite the designated demographic. Practical in nature, addressed to households without servants, it includes recipes for thrifty dishes such as broths of cow-heel or sheep's-head, stuffed bullock's heart, baked pig's head, 'a pudding made of small birds', as well as instructions on making large quantities of nourishing soups. The emphasis on resourcefulness and nose-to-tail eating gives it a modern feel.