The Tyranny of Elegance

The Tyranny of Elegance Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the Era of Goethe

Hardback (16 Oct 1998)

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Publisher's Synopsis

In an intersection of fashion and literature, the popularity of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe's "The Sorrows of Young Werther" provoked hundreds - perhaps thousands - of young Germans to purchase and wear the blue and yellow suit of the novel's protagonist. Their actions not only showed their affinity with Werther and with other wearers of the blue and yellow, but also elevated cultural identification over more traditional elements of social standing, such as employment, education, region, or family. Even aristocratic Prussians forsook their riding garb for Werther's rustic suit.;In this study, the author examines the coming of bourgeois fashion (mode) and luxury consumerism (luxus) to 18th-century Germany. The liberation symbolized by Werther's suit was illusory, he explains, as fashion itself quickly became a force for conformity as rigid as the sumptuary laws - such as clothing ordinances - of earlier centuries. Purdy examines the extraordinary influence of Frederick Bertuch's "Mode Journal", which chronicled in obsessive detail the clothing and decorative trends in London, Paris, and other European capitals. He traces the elite reaction against fashion that followed the example of the King, Frederick the Great, who dressed poorly - in worn and even dirty clothes - to separate himself from the francophile fastidiousness of absolutist armies.

Book information

ISBN: 9780801858741
Publisher: John Hopkins University Press
Imprint: John Hopkins University Press
Pub date:
DEWEY: 339.47094309034
DEWEY edition: 21
Number of pages: 368
Weight: 640g
Height: 229mm
Width: 152mm
Spine width: 29mm