Publisher's Synopsis
For the first time, this book expertly investigates decorative techniques in the luxury fashion industry. International curators and researchers offer clear insights into the diverse techniques, socio-economic backgrounds, and the visual and aesthetic value of these decorative creations. They offer innovative points of view about luxury, the ateliers where the decorations are made and the role of embellishment in fashion, as well as in the male wardrobe. The demand for decoration on clothing resulted in many highly specialised skills and crafts, such as broderie (embroidery), plumasserie (feather work) and parurerie florale (artificial flower application). This handcrafted adornment is synonymous with exclusivity and luxury, and still plays a crucial role in haute couture today. In their quest for glamour and exclusiveness, contemporary designers experiment with both traditional handcrafts and machine-made techniques. Technological developments have meant that decorative embellishments can be produced on a larger scale and that they now also appear in ready-to-wear collections. Embellishment/Smuk reveals these activities in the most important ateliers of Paris, hitherto an almost hidden factor in the fashion industry, the influence of machine applications and the role of decoration in contemporary haute couture and ready-to-wear. At the same time, the book delves into the male wardrobe, more specifically that of the 18th century courtier, who adorned himself with coats and waistcoats richly embroidered with floral motifs. Text in English and Dutch.
