Publisher's Synopsis
This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1907 Excerpt: ...straight-grained pitch-pine. Those who are proficient in the use of woodworking tools will no doubt be able to lay a strip of ebony A about g in. thick along the top of the handle or arm, from the neck to a projection of 3 in. past the shoulder, which butts up against the fiddle body; but as an alternative a short piece may be fitted in and glued. The handle is screwed to one of the sides, and has an extension which is glued down to the bottom half-way as shown in Figs. 80 and 81, the latter figure being a half-size detail of the body, showing the method of framing up. Sections at x, Y, and z (Fig. 80) are given in Figs. 82 to 84. The length of the neck of the violin should be about 3 in. to 3 in., and the peg on the machine head should go through half-way between the beginning of the fingerboard and the end of the neck. The top of the neck is expanded out square at the end to give a better finish, and a machine head, which can be obtained at any music-dealer's, is used. In fitting the machine head, all that is required to be done is to drill a small round hole for the barrel to project through, and to screw on the plate (see Figs. 85 and 86). An ordinary violin peg is suitable, with careful boring of the hole, so as not to split the head. To secure the string to the body a small button is screwed to the bottom side of the body (see Figs. 87 and 88), those sold for handles for fretwork cupboards being very suitable. A small square of wood is glued on the inner side to form a better hold for the screw. The handle is at an angle to the body, so as to keep the bridge a good height. The wire string should be about J in. from the finger-board at the bridge end, and fa in. at the neck end. All the wood must be well glass-papered. The glue used should be thi..."
